lost coast trail southern section

The Lost Coast is an 80 mile stretch of the California coast where the builders of Highway 1 decided to go around because it was too rough. We decide we should get going because we still have a considerable amount of elevation to gain. Exposure Lost Coast South Needle Rock to Usal Beach Published 2014-08-20 21:51:06 UTC Story by Kyle Frost To the north. Very few hikers have this combination of traits, making the Lost Coast Trail inaccessible to … This hike was easily one of our hardest day hikes, but oh so fun! We finish the hike around 10:30 PM, having walked 28.31 mi with an elevation gain of 11,739 ft in less than a twenty-four hours, and are exhausted. Read below to learn about acquiring a wilderness camping permit, what you should pack, or just some quick information on the Lost Coast. . In places it’s so thick that you can’t even see the trail or, for that matter, anything else except for grass. Distance: 53.28 mi The nicest time of year to hike the Lost Coast Trail is usually from late May to early October. RVs and trailers are not recommended in any season.” – Sinkyone Wilderness State Park. After Little Jackass Creek Camp, the trail climbs steeply out of the canyon. Most people thru-hike the trail from north to south in 2 to 4 days. The largest redwoods are right at the bottom of the hill; they tend to be slightly twisted and gnarled and lack the height or the magnificent, straight-as-an-arrow appearance of the redwoods in the major redwood parks. Hikers must also be patient, abstract, and methodically organized. The trail is part of the King Range National Conservation Area and is managed by BLM. It earned this name from depopulation in the 1930s and lack of road development because of the ruggedness of this section of coastline. Take Highway 1 to Usal Road. But if you are looking to get off the beaten path, have an extreme adventure, and explore the coast between Usal and Needle Rock, the Sinkyone Lost Coast offers a rugged backpacking experience. Not the most ideal setup for bike packing, but heck the best gear for a trip is the gear you already have. Parking Shelter Cove The unspoiled and remarkably varied scenery includes remote black-sand beaches and patches of old-growth redwoods. Worse, it’s unfortunately not very well-maintained. I pulled at least a dozen of the little blighters off me on the first day. We pass abandoned old sedans down in the gulches, that look like a drunk person’s night ride mistake, and an assortment of jeeps and old trucks pass us blurbing something about how biking this road is a bad idea. It’s really remarkable to think you have, or will, climb to the top of the imposing bluffs. Any remains of the enclosure have likely been used for firewood, and all that remains now is a plastic vent pipe lying nearby in the grass. The Lost Coast is a remote section of coastline in Northern California, with the Lost Coast Trail extending from Mattole Beach to Usal Beach and passing through both the King Range National Conservation Area and Sinkyone Wilderness State Park. Standing up, we feel rejuvenated. As the trail switchbacks uphill, the redwoods get progressively smaller, then give way to fir. downloadable trail guides, outdoor maps, and powerful GPS navigation features. It’s the only Sinkyone campground to be so spread out. King Range National Conservation Area does require a backpacking permit for $10/permit reservation, Sinkyone Wilderness State Park, does not require a backpacking permit, but has a $5/night self registration fee, Don’t underestimate the elevation gain along the coast, Bear canisters are required for backpacking in the King Range National Conservation Area and strongly suggested in Sinkyone Wilderness State Park, Shuttling cars is not direct and will take at least 2 hours 40 mins, Required for overnight use in the King Range Wilderness, Max group size = 15 people, so 15 people would need to reserve 3 permits, Not required for day-use or in designated campgrounds, Must be submitted > 29 days before your trip, Minimum fee: $110 + additional fees in excess of minimum fee, Contact King Range Project Office to request a Special Recreation Permit application, Not available for Memorial Day, Independence Day, or Labor Day weekends, Special Recreation Permit: $110 (minimum fee) + additional fees in excess of minimum fee. Reaching the ridgetop, the trail leaves the woods and becomes a little faint and overgrown, but with some nice ocean views. . A web browser that supports HTML5 is required to view the map. Normally, we try taking as few breaks as possible and making them as short as possible because these are what really decrease the distance you hike in a day. There aren’t a whole lot of ocean views in this area, since most of the trail is lushly wooded and on summer days is often in the fog. Fortunately, all of this is left behind within the first mile of the hike. Our Trip, Planning You can access this section of the Lost Coast Trail either from Needle Rock at the north or Usal Beach at the south. This is a one way hike, so you need to shuttle a car to the end and then drive to the beginning. This is the worst brushy section of the entire trail; it continues for about a mile but feels never-ending. . We arrive at the trailhead and begin packing our packs, pumping our bike tires up, and pulling together food. Little Jackass Creek (not to be confused with Jackass Creek, which is further down the trail at Wheeler Beach) has the most attractive campground of the hike. There are no park rangers or any other staff present, and I’ve heard that people illegally off-road on the beach, set off fireworks, and even shoot guns late into the night. We did a two day, one night hybrid bikepacking-backpacking trip where on: Instead, we would suggest giving yourself a little more time, so you can stop and hangout at the beautiful beaches along the way. The burbling of a little brook fills the grove, even in late summer. But, if you feel the need to purchase one, you can buy California’s Lost Coast Recreation Map by Wilderness Press. The most frustrating part of all of this, is that these are the sorts of people that ruin the freedom of these places for everyone by having the access get shut off. … The top of the hill marks the end of the really hard part of the trail; the rest of the Lost Coast Trail has a much more reasonable level of difficulty. Anderson Camp is the least scenic of Sinkyone’s trail camps; it’s OK, but there isn’t anything exciting about it. After the redwoods, the trail runs through an attractive fir grove. The trail begins at the Usal Beach campground, named for the USA Lumber Company, which built a sawmill here in 1889. 2 Nights, 2 1/2 Days, 25 miles on the North Section of Lost Coast Trail Day 1: Arrive at the Trail Head, mentally prepare for the adventure ahead. Lost Coast Trail-South (Hidden Valley - Needle Rock in Sinkyone Wilderness State Park) 9 miles, 875 ft. climb 2,600 ft. descent Mountain meadows, old-growth forests and ridgetop vistas through coastal chaparral offer hikers an interesting contrast to the northern leg of the Lost Coast Trail. “In wet weather, roads may be impassable. Shuttle Services, Hiking Suggestions $5/night (/person? Throughout the hike, no development at all is visible; this is one of the few spots on the California Coast that doesn’t have any roads or buildings. .longer than we were interested in. Despite its remoteness, the large campground is very popular and can be a bit of a zoo on summer weekends, with cars constantly driving by on the dusty roads and radios blaring. Research Camping Permits, King Range Camping Permit Southern Lost Coast: The less frequented southern section from Usal Beach to the Hidden Valley Trailhead, is an undulating trail that passes through forested canyons and up, over and along scenic ridges. After passing through San Francisco, make a quick stop in Garberville to fill up the tank. This is a giant campground, but you should plan to leave your car in the trailhead parking lot. Fortunately it’s much shorter, and it also has the best views of the entire hike, of the glittering ocean and the impressively tall, steep, redwood-covered bluffs both to the north and south. Park in the pullout across from the visitor center and pay the $6.00 parking fee. About | Contact | Contribute | Disclosure & Privacy Policy. The trail meanders along the foot of high mountains in the King Range in southern Humboldt County and northern Mendocino County. Most popular sections. Much of this section is heavily overgrown with brush, and erosion makes parts of the trail very difficult and somewhat dangerous. A mile away and we still see fireworks going off at Usal Beach. Reservation Request: submit a reservation request through the BLM’s online system: No permit is required, but there is a camping fee of $5/night (/person? The old woman brings us out two cold glasses of ice tea. Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. The trail starts climbing through School Marm Grove, the largest old-growth redwood grove on the trail. If it’s rained within the past few weeks, though, the road gets treacherously slippery and sometimes becomes completely impassable. With what we are about to get ourselves into finally starting to set in, we camel up, drinking as much water as we can. View of the beach at Little Jackass Creek. This trail is beautiful in its own right, but doesn’t explore the coastline like the Northern Section of the trail. The next beach is at the North Fork of Jackass Creek, which forms a pool just before entering the ocean. Some of the most important things to bring for bikepacking on the Lost coast (+ some fun things for your free time). There’s no path to the shore from Anderson Camp. After another climb there’s a long, level section of trail. The beginning of the road (Google Street View) is completely unmarked except for two warning signs. After a nice wide, level portion, there’s a steep, sandy, but slightly easier descent to Usal Beach. This whole section is very sandy and makes hiking a little more difficult. Near the bottom, the trail becomes brushy and overgrown again. The road is pleasant but unexceptional; compared to the singletrack, it’s a little dull. To show all trails and roads, click the rightmost (layers) button at the top of the mapA GPS-enabled version of this map for mobile devices is available. . Four miles later around 12:30 AM, we arrive at a heavily used campsite in Dark Gulch and decide to call it a night. With how much distance we still have to cover, I start to think we might not finish hiking until 4 AM. The Lost Coast Trail is divided into two sections. Take one of the Redway exits and continue to the town of Redway, then turn onto Briceland-Thorn Road toward Shelter Cove. When they hiked the Lost Coast Trail had recently opened a brand new southern terminus at Usal Beach & they tagged it! It’s 11:30 AM, we awkwardly get on our bikes, having never biked with a backpacking pack before, and head off down the Chemise Mountain Road, Philip on his mountain bike and I on my hybrid. There is an abundance of streams to get water from, but all need… Resting our heads on our pillows, all we hear is the creek running and insects humming. The Lost Coast is most pleasant for hiking between May and early October, which is usually the dry season. Out of deliriousness, we begin joking that we should just hike back to our car in a straight shot without sleeping. . Route: Usal Road + The Lost Coast Trail (loop) Length (distance): 24.6 MilesLength (time): 3-4 daysWhen to go: Late May to Early OctoberBear Canisters are requiredExpect to average 1.5 mph hikingMust hike specific sections (outlined in map) during lower tide time of day.Must bring some sort of filtration for fresh water. Five of us walked along this route during Memorial Day weekend in 2014 (May 24, 25, … Southern Lost Coast: The less frequented southern section stretches from Usal Beach to the Hidden Valley Trailhead. References / Trip Tools The descent into Dark Gulch is mostly clear and easy; at one point there’s an attactive little patch of old-growth redwoods, with 3 or 4 medium-sized trees visible from the trail. After having passed, Anserson Gulch, Northport Gulch, and Jackass Creek, there is a fairly steep ascent with few switchback and then the trail flattens out, running along a ridgeline. Dark Gulch and redwood-encrusted Timber Point. Middle: Shelter Cove to Needle Rock, 9.21 mi. The trail can effectively be split into two sections. Overall, even though this is the biggest climb of the hike, it’s much less brushy and eroded and therefore not nearly as difficult as the previous climbs. Here’s the northern trailhead location in Google Maps. The first two campsites are just before and slightly above the beach, and a third is right next to the beach; all are exposed to the sun and wind. . Background It’s a relief when the trail finally enters the woods again, where it becomes blissfully wide and clear (if I’m doing an out-and back, on the way back I’ll usually cut over to the dirt road at this point so that I can skip all the brush). During the summer dry season, I’ve never had any problem driving them in a Honda Civic, and I’ve even seen Mini Coopers and a Volkswagon campervan do it with no problem. The northern section of the Lost Coast Trail (between Shelter Cove and the Mattole River) is in better condition and is therefore more popular. The shortest route is a 64.5mi bike ride on Briceland Thorn Rd to route 101 to highway 1 and then on Usal Rd, connecting from Shelter Cove to Usal Beach. It will take me a little while to rebuild it and though it will never hold a candle to Henry's former page, I'll do my best. Property Boundary Regulations Lows rarely drop down to freezing in the winter. The sheer cliffs of the next stretch of coast are inaccessible by foot, so the trail begins inland several miles east from Shelter Cove, and doesn't return to the coast until near Needle Rock. Around 16.5mi down the trail, we hit an old road, Bear Harbor Road, with two tire tracks and grass in between. The northern half of the trail is easier but less dramatic. If you don’t want to deal with the hassle of shuttling cars or don’t have the means to, there are two shuttle service providers in the Lost Coast region that hold Special Recreation Permits from the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). The Chinquapin Loop is a loop off of The Lost Coast Trail along Chemise Mountain, near the start of the southern section of the LCT. The Lost Coast Trail is a great choice. However, the road is much more open and has some ocean views. The overgrown trail descends to a small cove with a wide, secluded black sand beach, the most scenic beach on the trail. This grove is actually an isolated part of Sinkyone Wilderness. The Lost Coast Trail ends with a pleasant, level path cut through tall, dense blackberry brambles. Not too big of a deal, as it is already quite noisy. The Lost Coast Trail makes a nice, easy descent through mixed woodland. Go straight at the “four corners” intersection, where the road becomes dirt. The last two and a half miles of the hike follow an old section of Briceland Thorn Road. . By this point, we are on the homestretch and in “zombie mode”, hiking in silence focusing on taking it one step at a time until we reach the van. At this point we have had it, we pack up, stash our bikes in the woods, and start hiking the Lost Coast Trail. Elevation Gain: 17,486 ft From Garberville, it should take approximately 45 minutes to travel along the 22 miles of twists and turns that eventually drop you off at the parking area of Black Sands Beach. We see multiple sets of glowing eyes, first a fox, then a herd of mail elk, and last some deer. View from Chamisal Mountain as the sun is setting. Camping in Dark Gulch along the Lost Coast. About a half-mile in is a brief break in the woods with a nice viewpoint. It’s not clear when the road will reopen. 2019 wildfire In July 2019 a small wildfire burned along Usal Road between the Usal Beach Campground and Highway 1, cutting off access to the campground and the southern trailhead. Both the northern and the southern ends can only be reached by 6-mile drives over the coastal bluffs on steep, bumpy dirt roads. Not your traditional hiking, backpacking, biking, or bikepacking loop, instead this trip, along the Lost Coast, combines it all. Apparently, our bodies really needed a break. The Lost Coast Trail climbs up and over the point. Just getting to the trail is a bit of an adventure. Until recently it was possible to drive this section, but a landslide near Needle Rock has made it too dangerous and the road is now closed to vehicles. The Lost Coast Trail is an approximate 52 mile trail that travels along the shoreline of the Lost Coast. We decide to do a backpacking trip along the middle and southern parts of the Lost Coast in Northern California. The trail remains relatively flat until we reach Whale Gulch. Our trip was a bit brutal and not something we would suggest, unless you want to really challenge yourself physically. I also knew I had some bad timing for when the low tides occurred during the first part of the week. Day 2: Hiking to Shelter Cove. What could be a nice, easy, and scenic section is instead slow and annoying. It’s quite a slow and unpleasant half-mile. The length of this section is misleading; it feels more like 10 miles and will take at least as long as a typical 10-mile hike. This trip takes you down the Lost Coast starting at Mattole and ending at Black Sands Beach. The northern section of the Lost Coast Trail is a fantastic 3-day, 25-mile route. It is 25 miles of trail to make it the final destination, Shelter Cove. t just over 700 miles, the Southern California section of the Pacific Crest Trail is a diverse and stunning landscape, brimming with life, and a fitting start or end to a thru-hike. The overgrowth finally clears up as the trail begins to descend through a pleasant redwood forest; this section, like most of the redwood-covered parts of the trail, is exceptionally smooth, clear, and easy. 25mi later, we are on the final stretch, smelling the campfires and hearing the sounds of vehicles on the beach. The Lost Coast Trail climbs up and over the point. By this point, the ride has transitioned from fun to a slow trudge. If you plan to use one of these, be sure to call ahead and book your shuttle. Backpackers who tackle this isolated 3-4 day trek will be rewarded with dramatic wild coastline and amazing wildlife viewing. There’s a little up-and-down as the trail continues through woods and open coastal scrub. we couldn’t find any information on this), which is paid at the trailhead. Thanks to the tree cover, the climb is blissfully clear of brush. The southern half of the Lost Coast may push you physically with the amount of elevation gain it has, but its scenic views, from high and low, will make it all worth it. We begin by thinking through our hiking plans, scratch that, there wasn’t much thought that went into this besides that we wanted to hike the Lost Coast Trail. There isn’t a lot of poison oak, but with the occasional sprig hiding in the brush and lots of thorny brush, it makes things a lot easier to wear long pants. *Please note that I've recently adopted this page after the original owner, Henry Timmer, left SP abruptly. Just before sunset, we go to bed. In fact the entire area is so secluded that even on a Labor Day weekend, I didn’t see a single person in the area all day. It runs through miles of lush, attractive coastal woodland high up on top of the rugged coastal cliffs. But while everyone else is rushing off to Yosemite, Sequoia, or Joshua Tree, travelers looking for a bit more solitude and seclusion should consider spending a few days on this forgotten section of the California coast instead. The drive is beautiful and the lost coast walks and views are well worth the time, but be sure you have the time. It is nearly a full moon, we are back to being hydrated, and amped from the Advil that we had taken before going to bed. This is Chase Grove. You know you went to a cool area when there is no detailed, quality map available for sale. GPS-enabled version of this map for mobile devices, The Roots of Motive Power’s August 2002 issue. To backpack or bikepack the southern half of the Lost Coast, you can either park near Shelter Cove, Usal Beach, or, if you want to skip the middle section (Shelter Cove to Needle Rock), Needle Rock Visitor Center. King Range National Conservation Area Map, 768 Shelter Cove Rd, Whitethorn, CA 95589, Tools for Driving a Van in Poor Road Conditions, Backpacking the Washington Coast: Olympic National Park. The landscape changes, too, with more woodland and less scrub. California's Lost Coast Trail is a hidden gem in a state that has more than its fair share of great outdoor playgrounds. The trail finally improves as it climbs out of the canyon, but then there’s more brush. Our first bike packing trip! The loose, sandy soils within the remarkably steep-sided canyon have resulted in steep, sandy up-and-downs, slumped trails, and dangerously narrowed hillside cuts. It goes all along the Pacific Ocean via rocky beaches, sandy beaches, bluff trails and creek crossings. Day 1: Biking to Usal Beach ViewRanger is an app that provides downloadable trail guides, outdoor maps, and powerful GPS navigation features. /tent? The trail is very brushy, literally having to hike through bushes of flowers that go above our heads and sections have sluffed off down the steep slope, making the trail quite narrow. The Southern Section: This portion of the Lost Coast goes deep into the Sinkyone Wilderness State Park from Black Sands Beach down to Usal Beach (roughly 32 miles). Click to see a similar view on a foggy day. A short spur to the left crosses a footbridge, leading to a beach with a view of the cliffs that you just walked over. Outside of Alaska, the King Range Wilderness is the longest undeveloped coast in the United States. It’s one of the highlights of the hike. We arrive at the beach, surprised by the number of people here and the chaos of motorcycles and cars driving all over the beach, in the river, and across the grasses that specifically state “no vehicles”. This route works out to being 25.28mi, much more manageable, assuming the road is in good shape. There are two campsites: one under the trees next to a brook in the bottom of a steep-sided canyon, and another in a grassy field next to the toilet. After the beach, the trail continues through an attractive alder grove and open fields before reaching the intersection with the Wheeler Trail. You can also start from the Wailaki Campground (6 miles) or the Hidden Valley Trailhead (8 miles). We haven’t used this map, but, after reading reviews, it sounds like you are better off using maps provided by the BLM and state. The campground doesn’t take reservations and doesn’t even have defined campsites, but there always seem to be spots available. Anderson Camp is at the base of these cliffs. Ideally, we would have broken this trip up into four days: The trip starts out with one of us saying, “Hey, we should try and do something more adventuresome this weekend…I can barely remember what we did last weekend” and from there the epicenes only escalates. The northern trailhead is about an hour and a half from Highway 101. Parking Needle Rock Visitor Center Once off the pavement and on the old four wheel drive logging roads (Usal Road), the biking begins to slowdown and the entertainment factor increases. Typically for a south-facing hillside, the climb is scrubby, overgrown, occasionally poison oak-infested, and a little rough, but unlike the previous hills, it improves as the trail climbs. Most rugged section, brief access to coves, but mainly snaking through the mountains, cutting inland at riverways. In this region the mountains end abruptly next to the sea creating a section of rugged coastline that feels cut off from the rest of the world. And if you’ve reserved a shuttle through Lost Coast Adventure Tours, call the company to confirm your ETA before cell reception cuts out. The hiking is quite slow for being on a trail. Wind your way down until you reach the Needle Rock visitor center, where there’s a gate across the road. I headed into my Lost Coast Trail backpacking trip during the first week of December 2015 confident that I would accomplish my goal to hike from Mattole Trailhead to Shelter Cove and return. From here, it switch backs up a steep slope through another forest of ferns. Around 18mi in we realize we haven’t been drinking enough water and start getting Charlie horses in our legs. . Even getting onto the seats of our bikes to bike the downhills causes Charlie horses in our calves, so we find side banks to get onto our bikes from. I knew it was going to rain a couple of days, but the forecast called for 10 mph winds. The crossing of Dark Gulch, including the last few descending switchbacks and the first few ascending switchbacks, is by far the most heavily-eroded part of the trail. Lots of hiking on beaches and timing of tidal constrictions is important. Unusually, there are also maples; the lighter foliage of the maples contrasts with the darker, more formal-looking redwoods and gives the grove a distinctively friendly, leafy appearance. At mile 1.5 the trail begins a steep and unpleasantly brush-clogged climb up an exposed hillside. The shuttle from one end of the trail to the other is quite long, being at least 2 hours 40 min, and the roads are a bit rough (being either windy, bumpy, steep, etc). After looking into transportation logistics, we realize that there is no direct paved road connecting two points along the southern part of the Lost Coast Trail. .we have gotten a second wind. If any of these things bother you, cover your skin by wearing long pants and a long sleeve shirt and consider where you place your pack or trekking poles. The Lost Coast is a section of the California North Coast in Humboldt County, which includes the King Range. To avoid our muscles seizing up, we start walking the uphills and sitting on our seats on the downhills. After descending past a few stumps, the trail bottoms out and becomes somewhat faint and overgrown as it passes through a meadow. Here, the shuttle will pick you u… You can also read about and view photos from our trip. The southern half of the trail is exceptionally challenging, with an extreme amount of up-and-down for a coastal trail. The Lost Coast Trail stretches 25 miles through the King Range National Conservation Area, from Mattole Beach in the north to the village of Shelter Cove in the south. The trail begins with a climb along an attractive redwood-covered ridge. In order to overnight camp/backpack in the King Range National Conservation Area a permit is required. After the North Fork of Jackass Creek there are some rolling hills and I’m really starting to feel fatigued from the elevation gain that we just did when hiking out of each gulch. 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